Ali Sadpara, The King Of Mountains, Unsung Hero
He(Ali Sadpara) is very brave and courageous. Life is a struggle. It is normal to play with dangers. It is a habit to climb the highest peaks of the mountains. It is a habit to face the hardships of the weather and circumstances. But this time it is not known whether "he" won or the death. The search for Ali Sadpara continues. The hands of his fans spread across the country are praying for his safe return. See what is revealed by the veil of nature.
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| Ali Sadpara, The King Of Mountains, Unsung Hero |
Muhammad Ali Sadpara was born into a poor family in Sadpara, a mountaineering kingdom in the south of Skardu, Ali Sadpara became a role model for adventurers around the world. Foreigners know him more than Pakistanis. Ali has been teaching mountaineering to students at various educational institutions in France and Spain for the past four years. Loved by parents and loved by relatives, he was rewarded with courage, bravery, and hard work in his childhood.
Born on February 2, 1976, in the Baru Gom neighborhood of Sadpara village, Ali Sadpara studied the Qur'an with his only sister, Malika, from the neighborhood elder Akhund Rozi, while at an early age, his father Haji Asad, mother Fiza, and elder brother Nemat Ali. With increasing participation in agriculture and livestock care. He got his primary education from Sadpara Primary School. The village did not have access to post-primary education. Most of the children could not continue their education after primary school. But Ali's father, who was a Grade One recruiter in a government department, decided to move to Sundus village, which is in Skardu, to continue Ali's education.
Here Ali completed his middle and high school education from Kushmara and the only Federal Boys Inter College in FA Skardu. Ali took part in sports during his education and became famous among the best sportsmen with good students. He was the best footballer in Skardu. In addition to the Sundus Mohalla and School team, he was also part of the district team. Classmates at the school say that even if Ali's football team lost, Ali would have won, because people would watch Ali's match. They used to come and pay homage to him. Ali was the only player for whom the team was formed, he always played in the center forward position.
After graduating from college, due to some domestic constraints, Ali went to Balochistan for employment, where he did his first job in Makran, but only three months later he returned to Skardu and opened an old shoe shop in Bhutto Bazaar. He turned to adventure. He bought mountaineering equipment and began to cultivate his hobby. As a child, Ali and I often played together. There were mountain climbing competitions between the children of the neighborhood and Ali always won. As a child, he realized his God-given abilities.
He used to take a lot of risks while climbing the mountain and was not scared at any stage. Ali's uncle Hussain was also a good climber. He was the first climber of Sadpara to die during the adventure. He had taken Ali in his arms many times as a child and told his sister that this nephew of mine would not only become a great mountaineer but would also teach a lesson to the British, and indeed Ali proved his uncles' words true.
Ali was married in 1997 to the daughter of Haji Muhammad Hussain, a mountaineer from Sadpara. He has three sons and a daughter. Ali Raza, a senior climber, then tested Ali Sadpara's God-given abilities and began training Ali in early mountaineering.
Ali Sadpara made the first successful rescue with Ali Raza, and the Spanish mountain that crashed at the height of the 7,000-feet Latok Peak on both Hesper Glaciers. He went to rescue the climber but unfortunately, he died before he arrived. However, instead of leaving the body of the climber on the mountain, he brought it down and handed it over to his family. Ali Sadpara volunteered from the beginning of his career. Always ready for rescue, he was part of rescue teams on all other mountains including Nanga Parbat along with renowned climbers of Shamshal and Hoshay including Ali Raza Sadpara and Hassan Sadpara.
Ali first climbed the 7,027-meter-high Spantik Peak in 2006 and in the same year hoisted the national flag on the 8035-meter-high Gasherbrum II, one of the 14 highest mountains in the world at 8,000 meters above the Karakoram Mountains. Ali Sadpara, along with the Polish team, covered the summit twice for extreme altitude during the winter adventure of 8051m, but could not climb due to the weakness of the foreign climbers. Then in the same year, he climbed two mountains in two countries. First, he climbed the 7546-meter high peak of Moztak Ata in Xinjiang Province of the People's Republic of China. The 8126-meter high peak of Nanga Parbat and K2 are among the most dangerous mountains in the world.
Ali Sadpara continued his journey of success in the journey of adventure and in 2010 he climbed 8068 meters high Gesherbrum One and in a short span of 4 years had the honor of climbing three peaks above 8000 meters and three peaks above 7000 meters. This era was the heyday of the four mountaineers of Sadpara, Hassan Sadpara, Ali Raza Sadpara, Ali Sadpara, and Nisar Sadpara in the world of mountaineering, but unfortunately Nisar Sadpara, in 2012 during the adventure of Gesherbrum One. Died along with the scales. Nisar Sadpara was on a winter adventure with Australian climber Gerft Goshal and Swiss climber Cedric when he went missing at close to 8,000 meters due to strong winds. The bodies of the three could not be found.
Ali Sadpara embarked on a winter adventure of 8047 meters high Broad Peak in 2011 but could not succeed despite the two best efforts. Ali Raza Sadpara and 7 members of Poland were also involved in this expedition. He returned from Camp Four in 2012 with a cold toe during the winter adventure of Gasherbrum One, but two members of the expedition from Poland succeeded in the adventure. In 2013, he went on a Macaulay adventure in Nepal with the American Expedition, but without success. The toes were also burnt during the campaign.
Ali Sadpara achieved the greatest success of his career in 2016, setting a world record by climbing the 8126-meter-high Nanga Parbat for the first time during a winter adventure with Italian climber Simone Moro and Spanish climber Alex Texicon. His fellow climbers said in their interviews that the campaign would not have been successful if Ali Sadpara had not been with us. In the same year, Ali also set a record for climbing Nanga Parbat in the fall, climbing the mountain three times.
In 2017, Ali made his first successful winter adventure on the 7492-meter-high Pumori Peak in Nepal, but in the same year, the world's highest peak, Mount Everest, failed. Ali was accompanied by Alex, the partner of this winter adventure. Before leaving for Nepal, Brigadier General Ehsan Mahmood handed over the Pakistani flag to Ali Sadpara in front of hundreds of people at the Municipal Ground. Climbers from all over Baltistan attended this beautiful and unique event.
Ali's eyes watered as he took the national flag from Brigadier Ehsan Mehmood to the echo of the national anthem. Later, Ehsan Mahmood, as the Force Commander, also cooperated with this great son of the country and Ali Sadpara climbed the 8156 meters high Manaslu. With these extraordinary achievements of adventure, Ali Sadpara climbed the 8 highest mountains in the world. Achieved the honor of being the first Pakistani and also set many world records.
When Ali Sadpara's eldest son, Sajid Sadpara, first expressed his interest in mountaineering, he urged his son to complete his studies first, but seeing his son's eagerness to become an adventurer, Ali trained Sajid himself. After which, when it came time to give Sajid mountaineering equipment and tools, Ali first held the national flag in his son's hand and said that this flag is our purpose in life. Sajid told us that on July 16, when a 10-member Nepali team climbed the 8,611-meter-high K2, they looked very impatient to hoist the national flag at the top of K2, before leaving for our second attempt. Sajid Ali scaled the summit in 2019, and in 2020 Sajid Ali Sadpara went on his first winter expedition with his father, Ali. Icelandic mountaineer John Snorri was a member of the three-member team, for which John Snorri hired the professional services of Ali Sadpara and Sajid Sadpara.
More than 49 climbers from 18 countries were taking part in this year's K2 adventure, most of them Nepalese, while Pakistan, the USA, Germany, Iceland, Finland, Poland, Greece, and many more. Ali Sadpara, along with his sons Sajid Sadpara and John Snorri, left Skardu on November 28 and reached base camp on December 5. In the first phase of the adventure, a team of 10 Nepali climbers made their K2 summit on January 16 Set a record for scaling K2’s summit during the winter. Nepali mountaineer Nirmal Purja has led the expedition, which holds the world record for climbing 14 of the world's 8,000 mountains in just six months. Earlier this record was made in 8 years.
With Nirmal Praja, the summit started from Camp III at one o'clock on the night of July 16 and it was possible to reach the peak at one o'clock in the afternoon, but the team headed at five o'clock in the evening and returned after staying at the peak for only 10 minutes. The journey began, reached Camp Three safely at one o'clock that night, and the same day a Spanish climber fell into an icy crater on his way back from Camp One. After the success of the Nepali climbers, Ali Sadpara and his team made an attempt on January 25, but due to bad weather, they had to return from Camp III. Meteorological agencies forecast clear weather on February 4 and 5. Along with Sadpara and the team, 30 climbers started their adventure from base camp on February 2.
On the first day, two climbers returned from Advance Base Camp, while on the second day, seven climbers, including a Polish woman climber returned from Camp One, whereby February 4, most of the climbers had returned to base camp. The Chilean climber managed to get past Camp Three with his fellow climbers.
One of the returning climbers, from Bulgaria, died after falling into an icy gorge by a reason of a rope cut near Camp Three, whose body was expertly lifted by military aviation pilots. At 12 o'clock on the night of February 5, Ali Sadpara started his summit with his son Sajid Sadpara and Icelandic climber John Snorri. The Chilean climber also joined Ali and his team in this last summit, Sajid Sadpara. While he was on an adventure without oxygen, when he reached an altitude of 8200 meters, he started feeling a severe lack of oxygen in his body, so Ali Sadpara asked him to use an oxygen cylinder. Could and returned. "I saw my father for the last time when I came back," Sajid told Jang. All three were healthy and the weather was fine. They were crossing the dangerous area of Bottle Neck at that time. It was about 12 o'clock.
When I reached Camp Three, I warmed water for my father and his friends and waited for them all night long. Turning on the emergency light in my tent, I kept looking at the Bottle Neck area, but when he did not come until the morning, I went a little above Camp Three, but I felt that he could not return from the Bottle Neck area. The message was given that Ali Sadpara and his team had gone missing. Fresh climbers would leave by helicopter to search for him, so he should return. Returning to base camp on the night of February 6, two Pakistan Army helicopters searched for the missing climbers at an altitude of 7,000 but had no success. On the second day, the climbers resumed their search by helicopter, but no one successful later reached Skardu. Talking to the media, Sajid said, "I am sure that my father and colleagues returned to the bottleneck after heading to K2."
In Army Aviation, Commissioner Baltistan Division, Deputy Commissioner Skardu, Shigar, and Assistant Commissioner Shigar welcomed Sajid along with his relatives. He also shared the details with his father's loved ones through the media and thanked the nation for praying for his safety. He thanked the federal and provincial governments and the Pakistan Army for their exceptional cooperation.
Located at the highest point in the People's Republic of China, Xinjiang Province, and in the northern part of Pakistan, K2 is the second-highest peak in the world. There is a cluster of many peaks above a thousand meters. One of the four K2 adventurers loses his life, hence the name "Wild Mountain". The mountain was first discovered by the British geographer Thomas Mondgumri.
Prince Abruzzi of Italy, the first expedition that reached K2 from Skardu in 1909 via Srinagar with the team, the route of today's K2 adventure is named after him. The first successful mountaineering expedition to the mountain was also the Italian, who made the first K2 summit on July 31, 1954. K2 is the deadliest of the five highest mountains in the world, with 86 deaths so far. Meanwhile, five climbers were swallowed up by the mountain in this winter's adventure, which may include legend Ali Sadpara from Sadpara.
News of Ali Sadpara's disappearance spread like wildfire all over the world and became a top trend on social media. People from all over the world prayed for his safety. President Dr. Arif Alvi, Prime Minister Imran Khan, Chief of Army Staff General Qamar Javed Bajwa, PPP Chairman Bilawal Bhutto Zardari, Foreign Minister Shah Mehmood Qureshi, Zulfiqar Ali Bukhari, Gilgit-Baltistan Governor Raja Jalal Hussain, Chief Minister Khalid Khurshid, Opposition Leader Amjad Hussain Advocate and Tourism Minister Raja Nasir Ali offered prayers. All possible cooperation is also being continued with.
Abbas Chopa, a close friend of Ali, the Registrar of the Chief Court, told us that people like Ali Sadpara, who are as high-spirited as a mountain, are born in centuries. I know Ali's abilities well. He has the ability to protect himself from every difficult step. I am sure he can sacrifice himself to save someone.
"I hope the world will not lose a perfect climber," said Alex Texicon, a Spanish climber.
Along with this, adventure with Ali on Nanga Parbat and many other mountains is a part of my beautiful memories. Ali Raza Sadpara said that mountaineering is Ali Sadpara's love and passion, he always liked to live in the heights. And the famous mountaineer Akbar Hussain Sadbara said that he was very wicked, funny, and very risky from his childhood, he was afraid of it.
Ali Sadpara repeatedly expressed his desire and need to build a climbing school for training children in his village and a rescue system consisting of modern helicopters in Gilgit-Baltistan. Today, the federal government should take steps to fulfill the wish of Ali Sadpara. Pakistan is demanding to give. Who is more deserving of these national honors than heroes like Ali Sadpara? The decision by the Pakistan Army chief to continue the search operation has raised the spirits of the climbers and their families.
Has any climber ever spent more than 20 hours in a death zone?
Although the chances of a climber surviving more than 48 hours at an altitude of 8,000 meters are slim, the record for the longest time spent in the death zone is held by Nepal's Pemba Guljin Sherpa, who rescued two climbers in 2008. Stayed in the K2 Death Zone for 90 hours.
When asked why he went back to the death zone to rescue the two climbers and why he spent 90 hours in the gorge of death at an altitude of more than 8000 meters?
His answer was "I was lucky on K2, you know, I was lucky. "
Can Muhammad Ali Sadpara and his associates be just as lucky?
Only time will tell the answer to this question but we pray that this foremost mountaineer of Pakistan along with his companions return alive.
How many hours can a climber survive in a death zone?
According to medical experts, the human body is designed to live at an altitude of 2100 meters above sea level. And at higher altitudes, the saturation of oxygen in the human body begins to decrease rapidly and negative effects begin to take place in the body. Adapt to the environment so that their brains gradually adjust to the oxygen supply.
According to mountaineering experts, climbers usually enter the danger zone after Camp One (altitude of 6000 meters) on K2 and the negative effects of lack of oxygen also begin to appear in them. Hypoxia (oxygen) With a decrease), the pulse increases, the blood thickens and the risk of stroke increases. In the worst-case scenario, climbers' lungs become inflamed and may develop high-altitude cerebellar anemia (HACE).
They start coughing with or without blood and their respiratory system is badly affected. In this condition, most of the climbers' brains stop working, they lose their ability to think and understand, they find it strange. Delusional thoughts come. At an altitude of 8611 meters above sea level, K2's famous place called 'Bottle Neck' starts from about 8000 meters and in mountaineering terms, it is called 'Death Zone'. This is where survival challenges increase significantly.
Here climbers have to contend with deadly natural weather as well as a battle within their own bodies. In the death zone where one wrong step means falling straight into a ditch or glacier thousands of feet deep and embracing death. At the same time, further deprivation of oxygen at this altitude has serious effects and the human brain loses control of the body and the body becomes paralyzed.
The lack of oxygen needed for humans to breathe in the death zone increases the risk of 'altitude scans', while high winds at such altitudes can be fatal for climbers. But even very low temperatures can cause frostbite in any part of the body. Climbers can also suffer from medical conditions such as cerebral edema, retinal hemorrhage, severe headaches, nausea, disorder, hallucinations, or deception.
There is no room for error in the death zone and you cannot spend more than a certain amount of time here and sleeping or staying here too long means death. That is why the climbers arriving at Camp Four do not sleep. Just try to get to the summit cheaply for a while and try to get out of the death zone by climbing the peak in about 16 to 18 hours. Climbers live in the death zone for a maximum of 16 to 20 hours. Climbers are specially instructed not to spend more time in the death zone.
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